Thursday 4 October 2012

How I Roll a Paint on a Wall


1) Cut the entire room first. Check out How I Cut in Paint with a Wall with Textured Ceiling video for more information

2) Make sure your roller has a decent amount of paint on it and apply to wall and spread out by rolling up and down

3) Make sure you have an uniform finish around your electrical outlets and switches

4) When it comes to the corners, keep pressure on the roller to the outside edge so you do not create a "sausage" (When there is excess paint build up, Trendz Painting lingo)

TIPS:

*Lock your arms to ensure you do not hit the ceiling with the roller

*Take care of any "sausages" while the paint is wet. Simply take roller and roll the paint out evenly

Saturday 29 September 2012

How I Cut In Paint On A Wall With a Textured Ceiling

Here's Jared demonstrating how to cut in paint on a wall that had a textured ceiling.



1) Start with a good brush
 
2) Liberally apply paint to corners where both walls meet
* If you are slower at this make sure that the temperature in the room is not too high because it will cause the paint to dry faster and become sticky

3) When painting against the ceiling make sure your brush is feathered out. This will ensure that you will not have any excess paint on the ceiling.

4) Make sure the line on the opposite side of the ceiling is feathered so when you roll the paint onto the wall you will not have a line of built up paint


TIPS:

* Make sure to move your arm and hand and not just your wrist, this will help create a straight line

* If the texture falls down, simply take a putty knife and push it back up



 

Friday 3 August 2012

Where The Imagination Runs Wild

A child's room; a sanctuary for the creative naive mind. Let them be captivated and enchanted by mystical creatures, never never lands and princesses. Why not? You're only a kid once!

We've collected 7 kids rooms from around the web. Which are your favorites?
1. Does your child have a favorite colour they just can't get enough of?

We found a girl that REALLY LOVES purple on http://www.gowallpaper.net/




2. Bold in contrasting colours. Using a bright feature wall, along bright contrasting accents.  We found this bright room on http://www.lovekidszone.com/
3. Sky's the limit! Let the day dreaming begin with this ceiling made into a blue sky and clouds over on http://www.cool-kids-rooms.com/

4. Calling all princesses!  http://www.visualremodeling.com/ brings us a new modern princess look.

5. Ultimate sports fan.  Why not change up the flooring? We found this gem on http://modern-homes-interior-design.blogspot.ca/

6. Artistic yet bold. An accent of a painted tree is a nice touch. Many other tree inspired themes over at http://babyboyroom-ideas.blogspot.ca/

7. Basic in blue. http://boysgerms.com.au/ shows us that you can be basic but still pack a punch, and be creative with a theme

We would love to see your creative kid's bedrooms, we encourage you to share them on our Facebook page.









Sunday 29 July 2012

Part 4 - Clean Up


Now that we've moved our way through the painting process, there is one more step, clean up. Of course, the clean up procedure will depend on how large the project is.


TIP: To maximize the life of your tools, make sure you thoroughly clean them before storing them


Latex Paints

·        Clean spills before they dry with a paper or soft towel dampened with water.

·        Clean tools ie, brushes, rollers, etc. with soap and water

·        After cleaning, flush spray equipment with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. We suggest following the manufacturer's safety recommendations, each tool is different

Oil Alkyd Paints

·        Clean any spills before they dry with paper or soft towel dampened with mineral spirits or paint thinner

·        Oil alkyd paint must be removed from tools with mineral spirits or paint thinner

·        Pour the cleaning material into a clean bucket and rinse brushes and rollers well

·        When done, allow the solids to settle out of the cleaner, then strain the liquid back into the original container for reuse

·        Allow the settled solids to air-dry away from children, pets or open flames, dispose on container appropriately

·        Brushes should be kept in their original wrapper or paper-wrapped in a manner that retains their original shape before storing

Protection

We suggest allowing the paint to sit for 2 weeks before washing. After that, clean with mild household detergent and soft cloth or sponge.

Keeping it Green Friendly

Purchase only the amount of paint you'll need so there is minimal waste. If there is waste, dispose of appropriately. Here's a few tips:

·        Save a small portion of paint for future touch-ups. To keep the paint fresh, place a layer or plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before replacing the lid, and pound down the lid with hammer

·        Check with your local recycling depot to see if they accept dried latex and oil alkyd paints. Remember when drying latex paint to keep in a well ventilated space and away from children and pets

·        Seal oil alkyd paints in the can and store them safely away from heat sources until discarded appropriately  

·        NEVER pour paint, stain or any other coating down the drain, into a storm sewer or anywhere that may contaminate the environment



Do you have any more green friendly tips? Please share them below :)


Saturday 21 July 2012

Step 3 - Part 2 - Painting

Now that we've almost completed the process of painting a room, you're probably wondering is there a better way? Well, here are some tips that could help you out!
If you take your time, have patience and use good painting techniques you'll achieve that professional look you are striving for. If you rush you're more inclined to splatter or get paint where paint shouldn't be.


Another great tip to keep in mind is getting in the habit of going to the paint can. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you are looking for.


SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd1                                      Using a Brush

  1. 1. Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
  2. 2. Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.
  3. Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly — don't bear hard on the brush.
  4. A 1"-2" brush offers good control so it is well-suited for detail work such as cutting in around windows or painting molding. To apply paint to larger surfaces such as doors, use a 3"-4" brush.


                                      Using a Roller

    SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd2
  1. Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
  2. Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.
  3. For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll.
  4. If the surface you are painting is porous or textured, use a heavy-nap roller cover (1/2" or more). Use a 1/4" nap to maximize sheen on a smoother surface.


                       Painting Double-Hung Windows

    SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd3
  1. For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.





    SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd4

  1. Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.

SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd5



  1. Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the window.

 

 

Casement or Awning Windows

  1. Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.
  2. Finish with the crossbars, frame, casings and the sills.

Paneled Doors

  1. First remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If you happen to splatter or spill always clean up right away with a soft cloth, it'll save a ton of time in the end
  2. Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush.
  3. Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lock-side edge.

Flush Doors

  1. Paint the edges first.
  2. Then fill in the center area, working from top to bottom.
  3. Finish with the frame and jamb.




If you have any questions, we'd love to hear from you! Don't hesitate to call 778-887-8763 or shoot us an email at info@trendzpainting.com

Do you have any tips or tricks? Let us know, leave a comment below :)

Friday 20 July 2012

Step 3 - Part 1 - Painting


Now that we have all our supplies, and we’re ready to paint, we have to prep. Preparation may be a pain, but let us assure you that it will save much hassle and headaches later on down the road. It allows you to solely focus on painting, and not trying to spill, splatter or mark up your floors or furniture.

Let’s get started! We recommend you remove all draperies, pictures, mirrors, area rugs, hardware and cover plates. Move all furniture into the middle of the room and cover with a drop cloth for extra protection; you never know what could happen! Would be a shame to trip and spill red paint all over your a dresser that’s been in your family since the 1800’s, wouldn’t it? Tape off woodwork and tape down plastic drop clothes, also wrap plastic around light fixtures and hardware you could not remove. Ensure your surface is clean, as noted in Step 1 – Part 1 – Preparation. Lastly, open a window, ventilation is good!

We also recommend you tape off your walls from ceiling and moldings; it’ll make for straight lines and keeps the colour where it should be. Here’s a great article on how to tape.

TIP: remove the tape when the paint is not completely dry. It’ll be easier, and create straighter lines.

If you are painting an entire room it’s important you complete it in the correct order. It will help eliminate splatters, spills and mishaps.

1.       Ceilings

·         Paint a 2 inch wide strip on ceiling where the wall meets the wall with a brush

·         Use a roller with extension, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

2.       Walls

·         Just like the ceiling, paint a 2 inch strip around the border of the wall (along ceiling, floor, woodwork) with a brush

·         Use a roller, come as close as possible to create a clean, uniform appearance

3.       Woodwork

·         Paint all trim around doors, windows, ceilings and floor

4.       Floor

·         Start in a corner diagonally opposite to the exit, you will not want to be stuck in a corner with wet paint on the floor

·         Just the same as the ceiling, paint 2 inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall or trim

·         Use a roller with an extension pole or wide brush, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge

TIP: Use enough paint, get in the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, you’ll save time and get the finish you want.

More to come on how to hold a brush, use a roller, how to paint double-hung windows and much more, stay tuned!

Friday 6 July 2012

Step 2 - Part 2 - Primer

To get a great-looking finish coat and beautiful, long-lasting results, be sure to properly apply primer to surfaces prior to painting. There are many different characteristics when it comes to primer. It can be confusing; however the main job of primer is to:

·         Achieve a smooth, professional finish

·         Block stains, marks and odors

·         Assure adhesion

·         Speed topcoating

·         Prevent peeling

·         Attain the truest paint colour in the least amount of coats

·         Improve touch-up performance of the topcoat

Here are a few examples of the primers out there

Premium Wall & Wood Primer

·         Premium quality primer for the smoothest finish

Multi-Purpose Latex Primer

·         General purpose whole-house primer for multiple surfaces

Drywall Primer

·         Seals new drywall and previously painted walls for a consistent finish

Pre-Wallcovering Primer

·         Primes, seals and sizes in one coat

Multi-Purpose Oil-Based Primer

·         Versatile sealer and stain blocker, assures a uniform finish

Adhesion Primer

·         Tightly bonds to slick and glossy surfaces

White Pigmented Shallac Primer

·         Highest performing primer for sealing out the toughest stains and odors in one coat

Concrete and Masonry Primer

·         Seals and adheres to concrete, brick, stucco and plaster

We understand choosing the best primer can be confusing and we’re more than happy to help. Join the conversation on Facebook, shoot us and email or contact us at 778-887-8763

Do you have any pictures of your do it yourself projects? Don’t be shy, be proud of your work and share your creation on Facebook.

Friday 29 June 2012

Step 2 - Part 1 - Preparation

Preparation is the most important step in the whole painting process. It’s important to take your time and to thoroughly prepare any surface you are going to be working with. Preparation is the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry, without cracks and imperfections.

Here’s how to prepare several different surfaces:

Bare Wood

·         Fill nail holes, joints and cracks with patching mud

·         Sand smooth and remove access dust with tack cloth

·         Prime all bare wood and patch areas with a primer

·         Easy-to-clean latex semi-gloss or gloss would be the best choice for the finished coach

New Plaster Walls

·         New plaster walls must be clean and completely cured

·         Textured or swirl types and soft, porous or powdery plaster must be treated with a solution, repeated until surface is hard, rinse with water, allowed to dry and apply primer

·         Latex is a great topcoat since it’s so easy to work with

New Drywall

·         Panels must be secured

·         All panel joints must be taped and filled before painting

·         Once joint cement is dry, sand smooth, and make sure to clean any dust away

·         Latex is the best choice for drywall

Wallpaper

·         Always remove wallpaper! To remove wallpaper you can either use a chemical remover or a steamer, depends on the condition of the wallpaper

·         Make sure to clean off all adhesive, wash and allow walls to dry

·         Previously Painted Surfaces

·         Make sure all remnants of build up are washed off, use appropriate cleaner, rinse and allow walls to dry

·         Remove all loose paint and dust

·         Patch holes and cracks with patching mud, allow mud to dry, sand smooth

·         Glossy or nonporous surfaces required you to lightly sand to a dull finish or use an abrasive cleanser

·         Remove dust and cleaner residue

·         Ensure you prime all bare areas prior to applying the topcoat. Try to avoid “spot-priming” this will hinder your end result

Masonry, Concrete, Cement or Block

·         New surfaces must be cured, allow approximately 30 days. If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime surface with masonry primer

·         Remove all form release and curing agents

·         Rough surfaces can be filled to provide smooth finish

The basics of preparation apply to every surface, for the best results make sure the surface is clean, solid and dry before starting. If you have any questions regarding a surface don’t hesitation to give us a call, or send us an email we’d be happy to assist you.

Sunday 24 June 2012

Step 1 - Planning - Brushes and Rollers


Welcome to the second part of Part 1 - Planning. Here we'll explore different paint brushes and rollers.

Paint brushes come in a variety of sizes, end types and bristles. They all may look similar, but don't be fooled, they aren't. A higher quality brush could potentially result in a better-looking job with less effort. A better quality brush holds more paint and applies more evenly, saving you time and giving you better results.

Types of brushes
·         Natural-bristle brushes - made of animal hair, and are used to apply oil based paints, varnishes, shallac, polyurethane and other oil based finishes.  Just like human hair these ends split allowing the brush to absorb more paint and give a smooth paint release and finish.

·         Blend nylon/polyester brushes - work great with latex paints. The combination of the nylon's durability and polyester's shape retention makes for a high-quality brush, resulting in a high-quality paint finish. These brushes are easy to clean and last for several projects.

·         Polyester brushes - the best brushes for latex paint. Polyester brushes hold their shape and stiffness in any paint and applies paint smoothly and evenly.

There are several brush sizes out there. The general rule when picking a brush size is:
·         1" - 2" - window and other small trim

·         3" - glossy paints for doors and cabinets

·         4" - large, flat areas

We know what you're thinking now, "what about the brush ends?"

·         Chisel trim - it's slanted bristles help produce a good, straight line for trimming corners and edges.

·         Square trim - just as it sounds, squared bristles. Generally used for painting flat areas

·         Angled - usually a 1" or 2" brush and cut on an angle to help with paint application on window trim.

Just like paint brushes, rollers have a number of different combinations available to best suit your needs. Rollers are great when it comes to painting large, flat surfaces. They help speed up the process and create a smooth finish.

Fabric Types

·         Synthetic covers (nylon, dacron or polyester) - the go-to fabric type for most latex paints

·         Natural Covers (mohair or sheepskin) - should only be used with oil based paints. Latex paints can cause the fibers to swell and become matted.

·         Blended covers (polyester/wood blend) - works great with any paint. This fabric type combines the extra pickup of wool and the longer life of polyester.

Pile Depth refers to the thickness of the roller cover's fiber nap. It's important to pick the correct pile depth for the surface you're painting. The six basic pile depths will meet almost any painting project's needs.

·         Very smooth - metal doors and plaster

·         Smooth - drywall

·         Semi-smooth - drywall

·         Semi-rough - rough wood and acoustic tile

·         Rough - textured ceilings and stucco finishes

·         Very rough - concrete, brick and fences.

Now you've picked out your paint, brushes and rollers it's time to figure out how much paint you are going to need for this project. Don't worry, it's simple!

HEIGHT X WIDTH = SQUARE FOOT OF WALL


ADD ALL WALLS TOGETHER

**Note: subtract the square footage of any large windows or doors**

Once you know how many square feet your room is you'll be able to locate how much coverage each paint has on its label.

By this time you'll know what kind of paint to purchase and what brushes and rollers to use. If you have any questions we'd love to hear from you. Drop us a line at 778-887-8763

Up next, Step 2 - Prep. Make sure to come back and check it out!