Showing posts with label finish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label finish. Show all posts

Saturday, 21 July 2012

Step 3 - Part 2 - Painting

Now that we've almost completed the process of painting a room, you're probably wondering is there a better way? Well, here are some tips that could help you out!
If you take your time, have patience and use good painting techniques you'll achieve that professional look you are striving for. If you rush you're more inclined to splatter or get paint where paint shouldn't be.


Another great tip to keep in mind is getting in the habit of going to the paint can. Let the paint do the work, and you'll save time and get the finish you are looking for.


SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd1                                      Using a Brush

  1. 1. Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
  2. 2. Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don't wipe it on the side.
  3. Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly — don't bear hard on the brush.
  4. A 1"-2" brush offers good control so it is well-suited for detail work such as cutting in around windows or painting molding. To apply paint to larger surfaces such as doors, use a 3"-4" brush.


                                      Using a Roller

    SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd2
  1. Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
  2. Roll onto the tray's ridges to remove excess paint.
  3. For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll.
  4. If the surface you are painting is porous or textured, use a heavy-nap roller cover (1/2" or more). Use a 1/4" nap to maximize sheen on a smoother surface.


                       Painting Double-Hung Windows

    SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd3
  1. For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash; you'll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.





    SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd4

  1. Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.

SW - ArtDIRIntPaintTechniqueBd5



  1. Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the window.

 

 

Casement or Awning Windows

  1. Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.
  2. Finish with the crossbars, frame, casings and the sills.

Paneled Doors

  1. First remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If you happen to splatter or spill always clean up right away with a soft cloth, it'll save a ton of time in the end
  2. Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush.
  3. Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lock-side edge.

Flush Doors

  1. Paint the edges first.
  2. Then fill in the center area, working from top to bottom.
  3. Finish with the frame and jamb.




If you have any questions, we'd love to hear from you! Don't hesitate to call 778-887-8763 or shoot us an email at info@trendzpainting.com

Do you have any tips or tricks? Let us know, leave a comment below :)

Friday, 20 July 2012

Step 3 - Part 1 - Painting


Now that we have all our supplies, and we’re ready to paint, we have to prep. Preparation may be a pain, but let us assure you that it will save much hassle and headaches later on down the road. It allows you to solely focus on painting, and not trying to spill, splatter or mark up your floors or furniture.

Let’s get started! We recommend you remove all draperies, pictures, mirrors, area rugs, hardware and cover plates. Move all furniture into the middle of the room and cover with a drop cloth for extra protection; you never know what could happen! Would be a shame to trip and spill red paint all over your a dresser that’s been in your family since the 1800’s, wouldn’t it? Tape off woodwork and tape down plastic drop clothes, also wrap plastic around light fixtures and hardware you could not remove. Ensure your surface is clean, as noted in Step 1 – Part 1 – Preparation. Lastly, open a window, ventilation is good!

We also recommend you tape off your walls from ceiling and moldings; it’ll make for straight lines and keeps the colour where it should be. Here’s a great article on how to tape.

TIP: remove the tape when the paint is not completely dry. It’ll be easier, and create straighter lines.

If you are painting an entire room it’s important you complete it in the correct order. It will help eliminate splatters, spills and mishaps.

1.       Ceilings

·         Paint a 2 inch wide strip on ceiling where the wall meets the wall with a brush

·         Use a roller with extension, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

2.       Walls

·         Just like the ceiling, paint a 2 inch strip around the border of the wall (along ceiling, floor, woodwork) with a brush

·         Use a roller, come as close as possible to create a clean, uniform appearance

3.       Woodwork

·         Paint all trim around doors, windows, ceilings and floor

4.       Floor

·         Start in a corner diagonally opposite to the exit, you will not want to be stuck in a corner with wet paint on the floor

·         Just the same as the ceiling, paint 2 inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall or trim

·         Use a roller with an extension pole or wide brush, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge

TIP: Use enough paint, get in the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, you’ll save time and get the finish you want.

More to come on how to hold a brush, use a roller, how to paint double-hung windows and much more, stay tuned!

Friday, 29 June 2012

Step 2 - Part 1 - Preparation

Preparation is the most important step in the whole painting process. It’s important to take your time and to thoroughly prepare any surface you are going to be working with. Preparation is the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry, without cracks and imperfections.

Here’s how to prepare several different surfaces:

Bare Wood

·         Fill nail holes, joints and cracks with patching mud

·         Sand smooth and remove access dust with tack cloth

·         Prime all bare wood and patch areas with a primer

·         Easy-to-clean latex semi-gloss or gloss would be the best choice for the finished coach

New Plaster Walls

·         New plaster walls must be clean and completely cured

·         Textured or swirl types and soft, porous or powdery plaster must be treated with a solution, repeated until surface is hard, rinse with water, allowed to dry and apply primer

·         Latex is a great topcoat since it’s so easy to work with

New Drywall

·         Panels must be secured

·         All panel joints must be taped and filled before painting

·         Once joint cement is dry, sand smooth, and make sure to clean any dust away

·         Latex is the best choice for drywall

Wallpaper

·         Always remove wallpaper! To remove wallpaper you can either use a chemical remover or a steamer, depends on the condition of the wallpaper

·         Make sure to clean off all adhesive, wash and allow walls to dry

·         Previously Painted Surfaces

·         Make sure all remnants of build up are washed off, use appropriate cleaner, rinse and allow walls to dry

·         Remove all loose paint and dust

·         Patch holes and cracks with patching mud, allow mud to dry, sand smooth

·         Glossy or nonporous surfaces required you to lightly sand to a dull finish or use an abrasive cleanser

·         Remove dust and cleaner residue

·         Ensure you prime all bare areas prior to applying the topcoat. Try to avoid “spot-priming” this will hinder your end result

Masonry, Concrete, Cement or Block

·         New surfaces must be cured, allow approximately 30 days. If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime surface with masonry primer

·         Remove all form release and curing agents

·         Rough surfaces can be filled to provide smooth finish

The basics of preparation apply to every surface, for the best results make sure the surface is clean, solid and dry before starting. If you have any questions regarding a surface don’t hesitation to give us a call, or send us an email we’d be happy to assist you.

Saturday, 16 June 2012

Step 1 - Planning - Paint Selection


The first step in Step 1 of planning is choosing the right paint. This is determined by several different factors such as: what the room is used for, type of surface and desired finish you are looking for. We have good news for you though, interior paint is now formulated to provide:

·         scrub ability and stain resistance

·         good hiding ability

·         good coverage

·         spatter resistance

·         easy touch ups

eliminating most of the guess work!

The next question is latex or oil based paint? Both have different benefits and depends on which characteristics and uses. Latex is the easiest to work with. It dries quickly, extremely durable and cleans up nicely with just soap and water. Oil paints have good adhesion, excellent durability and stain resistance, which are great for high traffic rooms such as your kitchen and bathrooms.


You must also keep in mind the surface in which you are painting. There is paint best suited for ceilings, woodwork, walls, metal, masonry and floors.

Here's a few tidbits about each

Ceiling - generally specifically formulated flat paint. It hides irregularities and lap marks, and rolls on with minimal spatter and won't yellow over time.

Woodwork - both latex and oil paint are okay to use on this surface. Always prime bare wood for best results. Easy-to-clean semi gloss finishes are the first choice, but when wear-and-tear is modest, flat or satin finishes are okay to use.

Walls - Latex is an excellent choice for walls because it's so easy to work with and just as durable as oil based paints.

Metal - use either latex or oil based paint on properly primed iron or steel. You can apply latex directly on aluminum and galvanized metal after primed with an oil based primer.

Masonry - on cement and brick surfaces acrylic latex wall paint designed specifically designed for masonry surfaces will work out beautifully  

Now that's all out of the way, we need to choose a finish. Of course, this all depends on the room and desired look. From flat to gloss, both latex and oil there is a full range of finishes.

Once again, here's a few tidbits about each

Flat - this matte appearance softens a room and helps hide imperfections, leaving the walls looking smooth. A flat finish is great because you can clean with just a damp sponge. It's ideal for:

·         adult bedrooms

·         dining rooms

·         formal living rooms

·         ceilings

Satin - has a slight gloss, and offers the benefit of flat finish with added clean ability. Best suited for high traffic areas such as:

·         halls

·         woodwork

·         children's bedrooms

·         family rooms

Semi-gloss - super durable and perfect for areas that are cleaned frequently such as:

·         kitchens

·         bathrooms

·         utility areas

·         closet doors

·         trim

Gloss - this extremely hard finish is perfect for items that are used frequently such as:

·         wood trim

·         cabinets

·         doors

·         furniture

Flat Enamel - a non-reflective appearance that helps conceal surface imperfections while providing some wash ability

Matte - this flat finish hides imperfections beautifully and its angular shine provides a smooth look, it's also washable!

Eg-shel - Great for walls! It has a slight hint of shine and holds up great to cleaning

Medium-Lustre - being a higher gloss finish, this finish is perfect for doors and trim

We understand that this can be a very confusing process for many people and are more than happy to help you find the best fit for you. Don't hesitate to call Trendz Painting at 778-887-8763 for further information catered to your needs.

Stay tuned for more on Step 1 - Planning, now you have the paint you'll need your utensils!  We'll help you choose the best suited brush, roller and more.